Caldas da Rainha’s municipality lines stretch to the Atlantic, and a lazy parish , Foz do Arehlo is our next stop. A family friendly beach by day, and a modern beach party environment by night, Foz do Arelho has the best of both worlds and is the default hang-out. Situated at the inlet of a large lagoon, you have the choice of both still shallow lagoon waters, or the rolling waves of the ocean. Cabanas, restaurants, sand, surf and plenty of people, Foz do Arelho always has something going on. The beaches are clean, the locals are friendly (read: sexy), and the views are spectacular. The lagoon wanders up inland quite a bit, and a walk to nowhere on paths through the reeds will lead you to the classic Portuguese portcard- handfuls of small boats on still water as fisherman try their hand at fate.
From Foz do Arelho, skip the highway and take the coastal roads winding along the cliffs in and out of villages of stuccoed simplicity, northward to Sao Martinho do Porto, set on a shell shaped bay. Its location allows for calm, shallow waters, perfect for sailing. The cliffs on either side reach to one another like arms protecting the shoreline, and it is said that Julius Caesar once traversed there. On the southern edge of the bay is the village of Salir do Porto. The waters in Salir are even shallower, allowing for many family visits, whilst the waters of Sao Martihno feel a bit more mature; the city has almost a Caribbean colonial feel.
Finish your day with a Cliffside sunset dinner in Nazare, a short drive north. Nazare possesses the perfect split of the area- a vibrant beach town at the foot of the cliffs, and the church on the cliff, surrounded by shopping and eating, with many restaurants on the cliff facing the ocean to maximize the sunset view; you can take a car or the funicular railway, common in the streets of Lisbon, between the two levels of the city, passing through the old town on the foothills.
There are symbols everywhere of the story of Nazare. In the city the older generations of women wear a traditional dress that consists of seven skirts. It is an old custom of fisherman’s wives that is a charming reminder of the industry and families who built the community. Another magical place important to the local folklore is a spot where it is said that a vision of the Virgin Mary saved Vasco de Gama from going over the cliff of Nazare, when his horse stopped dead out of full gallop- the hoof prints are there today, right on the edge of the cliff.
When you envision a place of fairy-tale, of faraway lands, princes and thieves, monks and moors, Portugal is often left behind. However, Portugal is one of the most magical, fantastical places on Earth. Thick in folklore, local customs, foods that embody the culture and have become favorites worldwide, any area of Portugal leaves you feeling a bit like Indiana Jones, exploring new and exciting places, one adventure at a time.
Awesome piece! I’ve never been to Portugal, but your description of the more cultured and beautifully landscaped areas reminds me of some coastal Spanish cities and even, for some reason, the atmosphere on some of the Greek islands.