Christian Dior silk and satin weave cocktail dress, 1954. (Photo courtesy of RISD Museum)

PROVIDENCE — Like a stiff vodka martini, taking the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) Museum’s “Cocktail Culture: Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980″ exhibit all in one gulp may result in lush fashion intoxication.

Upon entering the exhibition, visitors are greeted by classic black Christian Dior, as ready-to-wear today as when it debuted in the fall of 1954. Beyond the timeless silk and satin-weave masterpiece are seven decades, and more than 220 examples, of vintage decor and party-wear.

“‘Cocktail Culture’ traces the influence of the cocktail hour on fashion and design in the 20th century, from the flapper of Prohibition to the ultra feminine dresses of post-World War II to the spangled pantsuit of the disco era, and the accompanying designs for shakers and glasses,” said Interim Director Ann Woolsey in a press release.

The cocktail fashion of the 1920s and 1930s begins with the section “Mixed Company,” which addresses the mixing of both drinks and the genders behind closed doors. “The making of the modern drinker occurred during Prohibition, when those who enjoyed spirits gathered in private homes by necessity,” the wall label reads. “Shifted to a domestic setting, drinking, formerly the domain of men, became a pastime shared by women as well.”

The above looks from the "Day for Night" section have simple silhouettes with fun embellishments. (Photo courtesy of RISD Museum)

Among several items, a silk evening dress with olive with red accents by Elizabeth Hawes, 1939, stands out boldly in this section.

While “Mixed Company” deals primarily with the cocktail party, “Urban Nightlife,” which also focuses on the ’20s and ’30s, is primarily devoted to the iconic flapper style. One item featured in “Urban Nightlife” is a silk beaded flapper dress with glass bugle beads, stamped metal sequins and rhinestones from 1925.

The cocktail style then focuses on travel-wear from the 1920s to the 1940s in the “Travel” section. “The luxury ocean liner emerged as a stage not only for introducing new drinks, but for acting out new attitudes and style of dress,” the wall label reads.

One featured item in this section is Russian designer Magda Polivanov’s green and yellow Mardi Gras ensemble from 1936.

Then comes “New Materials, A New Purpose,” which is devoted to the wartime styling of the 1940s and early 1950s. Rationing restrictions and more women in the workplace may be responsible for a movement away from “made embellishment,” such as embroidery, and toward the women’s suit. Featured here is a black acetate women’s suit by Jennifer, 1945.

Dresses in "The Rules" section blend eveningwear with daywear. (Photo courtesy of RISD Museum)

The rest of the ’50s, represented in “The Rules,” reflects the upsurge of wealth resulting from World War II and the American desire for Parisian fashion. The mission was to blend the extravagance of eveningwear with the casual comfort of daywear to create an ideal cocktail party dress. The cut and style of the ’50s cocktail dress continue to influence designers to this day. Here, a Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel strapless cocktail dress, black lace with a velvet sash from 1858, stands out among several others.

Fashion from “Day for Night,” spanning from the late 1950s through the early 1960s, is simpler in design and leaves room for “over the top” accessories. This combination demonstrates the necessity of the little black dress in every fashionable woman’s wardrobe. Here, a bold 1969 Norman Norell variant on the little black dress, a wool mini dress with a vast rhinestone Maltese cross, is featured.

Next, from the 1960s to the 1970s, came the “New Casual,” a reflection of the general movement toward informality in fashion. “The enthusiasm for outdoor entertaining inspired the imaginations of designers of furniture, clothing and barware,” the wall card reads. “Men’s and women’s garments worn in this milieu are aptly casual and often take inspiration from ethnic and folk dress.”

This sleek Charter Company cocktail shaker is from 1928. (Photo courtesy of Dallas Museum of Art)

A 1950s floral cotton halter dress with rhinestone embellishment by Yvette is featured among others in this section.

The final sub-section of “Cocktail Culture” explores the “International Set/Club Culture” of the late ’60s through the ’70s, where bold, polyester prints reign supreme. A multi-colored silk knit dress by Emilio Pucci, 1970, is featured.

“I never would’ve thought there would be so many high-end names,” said Isabel Westfield, of Providence, a viewer of the exhibit. “Valentino, Balenciaga, Dior, Chanel…I don’t know about you, but I’ve died and gone to vintage heaven.”

If you, too, seek heavenly solace in draping Valentino rhinestone chokers and Balenciaga feathered headdresses, RISD Museum’s “Cocktail Culture” is awaiting your first sip. The exhibition will run through July 31. Visit the museum at 224 Benefit St., Providence to see the exhibit. Call 401-454-6500 or visit the RISD Museum’s website for more information.

I’m not typically attracted to the boldest pieces on the market, but lately I’ve been lusting over everything red! Have you seen the new Nordstrom Holiday catalog? Or Essie’s winter collection. Maybe it’s the frightening number of November Christmas displays clouding my judgment, but I’m in love.

The Nordstrom Holiday catalog showcases these beautiful rosette-adorned pumps in all of their special-occasion glory. I love their curves and the details. Designed by Steve Madden, they only cost $99.95. They haven’t hit the Nordstrom (or Steve Madden) website yet, but I’ll keep you posted.

I’m loving Essie’s “Lollipop” shade in their Winter 2009 collection. The bright red shade just made me smile the entire time it adorned my fingertips.

I’m usually a white wine kind of gal, but lately I’ve been a bit embarrassed ordering a Pinot Grigio with my filet mignon. When Charles Street Liquors had a wine-tasting a few weeks ago, I fell head over heals for this Argentinian wine, a Malbec. The taste is light and sweet, but doesn’t stay on your palet as long as say, a pinot noir. There are hints of black raspberry, and it’s just wonderful by itself or with dinner.

I was a lipgloss only kind of girl until about a month ago, at the urge of one of my daily reads, The Glamour Girls in the Beauty Department blog. Beginning my habit slowly, I found a few good drugstore colors, and started to experiment. Walking through Macy’s on my lunchbreak yesterday, I tried on shade #28 of Chanel’s Rouge Allure lipstick, and I fell in love. Called, “Romantic,” the shade is a rich raspberry tone that I swear would look good on anyone. The lipstick softens your lips and stays much longer than anything else I’ve tried. Not to mention how cute and slick the case is; I’ll whip it out anywhere!!

]]> http://blastmagazine.com/the-blogs/lady-in-red/feed/ 0 http://blastmagazine.com/the-magazine/culturefashion/fall-fashion-steps-back-in-time/ http://blastmagazine.com/the-magazine/culturefashion/fall-fashion-steps-back-in-time/#comments Mon, 08 Sep 2008 05:44:40 +0000 Alyssa Gugliotti http://blastmagazine.com/?p=2990

The end of the summer has always evoked a certain sadness. The last days of August bring goodbyes to the beach, patio drinks, flip-flopped feet and warm weather. However, I’ve found that September’s arrival also births a great sense of renewal.

Fall 2008 fashion is reminiscent of this nostalgia for the past, while also managing to be brilliantly independent from previous season’s trends. The styles, accessories and attitude of autumn’s 2008 look make the end of the summer less painful, and the season ahead much more attractive.

As the harsh economy lightens our wallets and puts a damper on extravagant spending this year, fall fashion stirs up visions of the past and reminds us of a time when money was tighter. Evocative of the late 1920′s and 1930′s Depression Era, feminine ruffles, structured shapes and a romantic elegance lend a vintage feel to many designers’ fall collections.

Both fashion legends like top designer, John Galliano and moderately priced lines like H&M, Banana Republic and The Gap are spinning their threads with flashback styles that emphasize Depression era chic. A point in history that defined fashion is again influencing men and women’s styles of today. It was this era that welcomed Coco Chanel, the definition of a woman’s waistline and curves, bias-cuts and the newsboy look for men.

While summer fashion saw floral patterns and light chiffon fabrics taken from the Depression era, the resurgence of ruffled tiers on shirts and dresses, lace and costume jewelry will headline this fall. According to Retro Radar at www.retroradar.com, Neiman Marcus is showcasing many 1930′s inspired accessories this fall, while even the more urban labels like Baby Phat have incorporated glamour into their runway collections.

The 1920′s and 1930′s trick to dressing on a tight budget was to buy colors and patterns that were timeless and could last for more seasons than one. Muted and classic colors like soft pinks, grays, creams and blacks were practical choices. This year, designer’s have incorporated these basic colors into their lines, while reviving vintage styles with brighter tones of deep plums, mustard yellows and dark blues that aren’t quite navy.

For women, layering is the key. Pencil skirts paired with a silk, ruffled blouse under corset tops, vests, and slim cardigans make a statement when accented with a skinny or thick belt. During New York Fashion Week, designer, Nanette Lepore, chose to feature cropped jackets and trousers in a menswear brown plaid fit, while designer Carmen Marc Valvo focused on sensuality with transparent, lingerie-inspired blouses and tailored pants.

For men, the newsboy style and look of urban simplicity is cutting edge. Baggy trousers, pinstripes, lace-up shoes and newsboy caps seem to be re-entering the fashion scene. For everyday, corduroy and velvet blazers paired with a collared button down and jeans gives a relaxed yet fashion forward look to a man’s style. On the edgy front, stores like Old Navy, INC- International Concepts from Macy’s and The Gap have incorporated more of a trendy vibe into their men’s collections. Printed t-shirts with flashier and intricate designs provide cheaper alternatives to styles produced from lines like Ed Hardy’s vintage tattoo wear.

While Depression era glamour has authority over the tone of 2008 fall fashion, there are many separate style components that have also found themselves on fall’s front line.

While everything that glitters may not be gold, the distinguishable mustard gold color of this fall definitely stands out. It seems that no matter where you shop, from the sophisticated prep of J.Crew to trendier, sleek French Connection, this color is making an appearance everywhere. In cozy cashmere, sexy silk, crushed velour and corduroy, this yellow is the color of the season. A warm hue on blondes, this yellow pops against brunette hair. The best part about this monochromatic color is that pairs great with many different colors making is a versatile staple in any wardrobe.

With basic colors of gray, black and cream headlining this season, Women’s Wear Daily reports that patterned tights and costume jewelry are accenting the trend. Printed, patterned and colored tights add a flashy, fun texture to your wardrobe. Animal prints, argyle patterns, bold hues of orange, yellow, and crimson as an extension to the legging trend spice up any outfit. Costume jewelry composed of chunky beads, rhinestones and pearls also enhance clothing this season. Bold cuff bracelets, dazzling cocktail rings, layered bangles, and pendants define accessories with the motto the bigger the jewelry … the better!

Another trend for fall is ombre clothing and accessories. This term refers to the graduation of color from a light to a dark shade. Club Monaco features ombre scarves while shoe stores like Aldo have ombre flats in a variety of colors. Incorporating ombre pieces into your wardrobe provides an easy way to stay on top of a trend and add interest to an outfit.

2008 fall fashion’s invigorating blend of the old and the new creates a diverse runway of colors, cuts and accessories. Every personality has a way to shine with the must-have looks of this season. An incorporation of personal style into each of these fads will make you stand out amongst the rest. It’s all how you wear it and pair it.

Saying goodbye to summer never looked this good.

No one ever said love was easy, especially if you love couture handbags. While not many will purchase Chanel’s Diamond Forever tote (available in December 2007, for those of you making a wish list, with the diamond-encrusted price tag of $260,150), the demand for high-end handbags has skyrocketed. Online retailer eLuxury.com saw sales of luxury handbags (those over $500) increase 11% last year.

With this kind of investment, proper cleaning and maintenance is essential. Hallak Cleaners, a leading couture dry cleaners that specializes in high-end products and handbags, recommends the following tips for keeping handbags and purses looking their arm-candy best:

• Store it in the dust cover or a soft pillow case when not in use
• Handle your bag with clean hands
• Avoid handling after applying beauty products, face foundations or hand creams
• Keep newspapers, photocopies or other printed materials at a safe distance
• Always avoid contact with ink
• Most important: If your purse gets dirty or stained, don’t experiment with cleaning methods yourself. Doing so might permanently damage your bag. Seek expert advice

"The most important thing is not to try cleaning it yourself," said John-Claude Hallak. "Even simple stains can ruin a purse, and special leather, suede and fabric each take different cleaning methods to bring them back to life. The ‘ring’ left by an improperly cleaned stain can render an expensive bag unwearable."

For best results, Hallak recommends having all handbags cleaned when they are lightly to moderately soiled.

A good cleaners should hand-clean the bags and refinish them to original beauty. Fabric handbags are protected against future stains with DuPont Teflon or Scotchgard. Suede handbags are evaluated to determine which cleaning processes are best suited for that type of skin. Oils and colors are restored to the bags after hand cleaning to make the appearance look as rich as they day you bought it.

Hallak also provides service to many famous New York boutiques including Tod’s, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Burbery, Chanel and many more.